Domaine Vincent Dancer

Mythical Côte de Beaune from a Tiny, Cult Domaine

Although we are not proud to admit it, many of our clients will hardly have heard of this cult Burgundy producer. This is understandable. At just 6.2-hectres this Chasssagne-based Domaine is tiny. Then we must factor in the extremely low yields. Dancer’s strictly organic viticulture naturally brings in a small crop, and these miserly volumes have been further reduced by a litany of frost and hail damage since the catastrophic 2016 vintage. The result, inevitably, is one of our smallest allocations coming out of Burgundy: Dancer’s white wines are as rare as a sheep with five legs, as the French might say.

So, what are we missing? Simply, some of the most riveting white Burgundies you could hope to taste. The style of wine produced by Dancer is reminiscent of his peer Olivier Lamy (of Domaine Hubert Lamy)—ultra-pure and thrillingly racy yet with terroirs that are naturally more powerful. With an artistic eye (Vincent is also a very talented photographer) Dancer coaxes mineral-driven, ultra fine white Burgundies with the emphasis firmly pointed towards elegance and refinement. From a superb collection of sites in Meursault and Chassagne, the wines are an incisive counter point to what Jefford has termed the “kind of cheese-paste, farm-straw richness of traditional funky white Burgundy.”

“Vincent Dancer is one of Burgundy's talented and gifted winemakers. Open and perfectionist, he produces wines of great purity,” La Revue du Vins de France

Dancer’s work in the vineyards can only be describes as meticulous. In 2012, he became first producer in Chassagne-Montrachet to receive organic certification, and although the practice is more common today, he’s still one of just a few. Now working with his son, Theo, he is now farming many of his parcels biodynamically and is using horse to cultivate all his 1er cru vineyards. In the cellar, Dancer’s work is the definition of artisanal, with all the qualities that his entails at a top Burgundian estate. All fermentations are done with native yeasts, malolactic fermentation occurs naturally, and there is no batonnage, fining, or filtering of the wines. It is worth noting that there has been no new oak purchased at the Domaine since 2019 and more and more 350- and 600-litre casks are being used as Dancer seeks to further reduced the oak impact on his wines.

Outside of France, Vincent Dancer is known almost exclusively for his whites. Dancer’s red terroirs total just 1.8 hectares and we’ve long been admirers of Dancer’s reds and we have repeatedly requested an allocation. To this Dancer has always responded that when the time was right, namely when he had a vintage that allowed him to produce some more volume, he would indeed oblige us. The stars have now aligned, and we can now offer a selection of Dancer’s outstanding reds to go with the whites. How good it feels to write those words! These are wonderfully bright and deliciously perfumed red Burgundies with the kind of supple depth and transparency that reflect both low yields and his meticulous work in the vines.

The Range

Domaine Vincent Dancer Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Rouge 2023
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Domaine Vincent Dancer Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Rouge 2023

This is our first, very small allocation of this wine since 2017—the year this plot was replanted. Again, the mass-selection cuttings were developed with the help of Lilian Bérillon, the celebrated nurseryman who works with the likes of Chave, Bize-Leroy, DRC and so on. Expect an intensely perfumed, layered and seductive red that is nonetheless more savoury and earthy than the other reds on offer here (we are in Chassagne, after all!).

Domaine Vincent Dancer Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Rouge 2023
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Domaine Vincent Dancer Pommard 1er Cru Les Pézerolles 2023
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Domaine Vincent Dancer Pommard 1er Cru Les Pézerolles 2023

Les Pézerolles is a site just above Les Petits Épenots and Clos des Epeneaux and is, therefore, one of Pommard’s highest Premiers Crus. It regularly produces some of the village’s finest reds. It’s a site that gives finesse—in the context of Pommard—and is widely considered to generate a style that is as much Volnay as it is Pommard. Some big names work in Les Pézerolles, including De Montille and Lafarge. Dancer’s small parcel was planted in 1978. Now mature exclusively in ceramic. This has brought even more finesse and purity to this delicious red.

“The 2023 Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles is pretty and pure, delivering aromas of orange zest, sweet red berries and rose petal, followed by a medium-bodied, cool and giving palate that's supple and seamless. It was matured exclusively in ceramic vessels this year.”
92 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Domaine Vincent Dancer Pommard 1er Cru Les Pézerolles 2023
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AT-A-GLANCE

• This producer in Chassagne-Montrachet has a cult-like following.

• The estate was founded in 1996 by Vincent Dancer and is today run by his son Théo Dancer.

• Approximately six hectares of vines in Chassagne, Meursault and a few plots beyond are farmed organically with biodynamic practices, and much of the soil work is done by horse. Yields are extremely low.

• Vinification at the predominantly white domaine involves mostly large-format, neutral wooden fermenters with no stirring and minimal additions.

• The white range includes wines from Bourgogne to Grand Cru, mostly from Chassagne and Meursault.

• The ever-improving and impressive reds include Premiers Crus from Pommard, Beaune and Chassagne-Montrachet, as well as village and Bourgogne wines.

• Produced in tiny quantities and highly sought after, the wines are sold strictly on allocation.



IN THE PRESS

“Dancer is the quintessential noninterventionist, disdaining analysis until bottling and letting the wine take its course: a year after the vintage, it isn't uncommon for his wines still to be gently fermenting. This attitude isn't to be conflated with negligence, however, as Dancer takes care of his wines as punctiliously as he does his vines. The white wines are textural, concentrated and expressive, beautifully defined by their respective terroirs, and routinely among the most characterful and original in Burgundy, distinctive in style without being stylized. This is one of my favorite addresses in the Côte de Beaune…” William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

“Vincent Dancer is one of Burgundy's talented and gifted winemakers. Open and perfectionist, he produces wines of great purity” La Revue du Vins de France

Country

France

Primary Region

Côte de Beaune

People

Winemaker: Vincent Dancer

Availability

National

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