Stelvin. This is the Chermette's top cuvee. It is named for the three parcels of vines from which it is grown in the famed Moulin à Vent cru. Rochegrès is said to give the finesse, Roche Noire the liveliness of fruit, and Rochelle the power. But it is the sum of the whole that we are concerned with here and it is a fabulous example of Moulin à Vent; intense and deep, yet beautifully balanced and long. It is aged half in older tuns and half in 1 to 5-year-old barriques. There is natural austerity here alongside powerful coiled fruit and a crackling mineral seam that is most likely derived from the local pink granite soils which are rich in manganese. The flavour here is just waiting to explode. Great Beaujolais, great Moulin à Vent, great wine. 5- 10 years will not trouble it but it is already wildly attractive.
"Chermette's 2010 Moulin-a-Vent Les Trois Roches - named after the lieux-dits Rochegres ("contributing finesse," opines Chermette); La Rochelle ("for structure"); and Roche Noire ("for vivacity") sites, all at the southern edge of the commune of Chenas - links tart-edged dark cherry and cassis with saliva-inducing salinity, pan-scraping meatiness, and fine-grained tannic chew in an expansive yet sharply-defined, tenaciously persistent, downright vibratory palate performance. This will intrigue and invigorate for at least half a dozen years." 91 points, David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate # 196, August 2011