This walled vineyard shares the mantle of Vouvray's most famous, historic lieu-dit with the great Clos Baudoin (which is now being restored to its former glory under the control of our own François Chidaine). Generally regarded as the greatest of the three Huet vineyards (Le Mont and Le Haut Lieu being the other two), Le Clos Du Bourg makes some of the most powerful, long lived white wines of Europe. With only a shallow topsoil over solid limestone, the vines are required almost immediately, to tap into the mineral resources underfoot. The warmth of the site, combined with the intense minerality of the soils results in rich, dense, yet transparent long-lived Chenin. The walls that enclose the site are also said to help facilitate a more humid micro-climate favourable to botrytis. For these reasons more sweet than dry wine is produced here. However when a Sec does come along it is usually the most alluring and substantial dry white in the Huet stable.
In the 2010 Clos de Bourg we find Chenin's minerality at its most energetic, running like an electrical current through the layers of pristine, crystalline, fruit. Depsite this intensity, there is a pulpy, almost seamless texture to the wine. The balance, for a young Vouvray from a great, age-worthy year, is quite remarkable. So is the length of the wine and its sheer, damn deliciousness. We have no qualms in saying that this is one of our best wines of the last twelve months.
"This is much more substantial than Le Haut Lieu, which seemed rather more pretty on the nose. Instead there is polished limestone substance here. There follows a lovely palate, forceful, and the acidity seems brighter even though the figures suggest it is very slightly lower. Lovely brightness to the fruit overall. This is a lovely wine, just brimming with potential." 17.5-18.5/20, points, The Wine Doctor.com (January 2011)