Stelvin. We looked at this wine in France a few months ago with François during a memorable day at Château de la Tour. Notwithstanding the company it had to keep - Grand Cru Clos de Vougeot - it was a very a fine Burgundy indeed, as a well known wine critic used to put it, punching well above its weight. Really plump, lush and silky. We cracked a bottle the day it landed and the trip had certainly tightened it up - as sometimes happens, especially with whole bunch wines - yet all the markers of quality were there. It's only medium bodied but with a chewy core and plenty of complex fruit. There's also something quite traditional here: savoury rather than overtly sweet and with an inky depth that you get from wines that have had a good cold soak. The length is superb for a wine of this level. It will blossom over the coming weeks and months gaining texture and fruit sweetness. For a Bourgogne at this price level it has a ridiculous pedigree. It's infused with François Labet's kid-glove approach to viticulture and winemaking. The wine comes from organically managed vineyards with vines over 40 years of age (hence Vielles Vignes) in and around Chorey lès Beaune. The fruit was hand harvested and then sorted (who ever heard of a Bourgogne level made from sorted fruit?). It was vinified at Château de La Tour so Labet had total control. The juice received a cold soak for a week with 50% whole bunches retained. Fermentation was in open topped fermenters (wild yeast only) before the wine was aged in barrels (10% new) for 12 months. It was bottled without filtration. Quite a remarkable story for a Burgundy at this price point and the wine in the bottle backs it up.