* Producteur de haute qualité LE CLASSEMENT 2007, Bettane & Desseauve
Our notes:
OK. It's a story we've told many times. But it's one we'll never tire of telling. Young winemaker, disenchanted with what has happened to the wines of his region. Starts producing biodynamic, low yield wines that turn the stereotypic wine style of his area on its head. Just the guy we're always looking for. In this case we're talking about François Chidaine and the regions of Montlouis and Vouvray. Classic regions for the Chenin Blanc grape. Yet instead of the apple 'n' honey varietal Chenin Blanc notes, the wines of Mr Chidaine offer us earthy complexity. Instead of steely, grippy acidity, we have a creamy, silky texture. The effect is exhilarating. Elegant, fleshy wines, supple and complex. Wines that taste of a place and an inspired winemaker - not simply a grape. In the modern war between grape and terroir, it's the soil that is winning this battle.
In terms of the regions, Montlouis is Vouvray's little brother, sitting directly across the Loire river in France's North. The analogy of siblings is a good one as the rivalry between these two regions is intense. However, as Montlouis is much smaller in size, 400 hectares as opposed to 1800 for Vouvray, and as most of the wine is consumed in France, Montlouis is less well known. Chidaine is the widely acknowledged master of Montlouis and he has recently gained access to prime land in Vouvray - including the legendary Clos Baudoin vineyard which he rents from the Poniatowski family. Farming biodynamically and cropping at well under three tones to the acre, Chidaine is to Chenin Blanc what Didier Dagueneau is to Sauvignon.
What the critics are saying:
Jacqueline Friedrich, The Wines of France "This dedicated winemaker goes from strength to strength."
This arrestingly fresh and vivid non-dosé cuvée is produced from 100% Chenin Blanc from a range of Chidaine's biodynamically farmed sites in Montlouis. These include the flinty 'les perruches'... read more
Again this comes from 100% Estate grown Chenin Blanc from a range of sites; this time from Chidaine's chalkier vineyards in Vouvray. The age of vines and yields are similar to those for his... read more
100% Chenin Blanc. Off dry in 2008 (the way we love this wine) at 19 g/l residual sugar. A blend of sites with vine age between 30-90 years. The soil is predominantly clay interspersed with silex... read more
100% Chenin Blanc. Dry. Wow. This is rounder in the mouth than the Vouvray above, yet remains an essay in spine-tingling balance between ripeness, intensity and freshness. The orb-like mouthfeel -... read more
100% Chenin Blanc. Dry. Simply a stellar bottling of this Vouvray. 2010 Les Argiles is all about shimmering, vibrant and fleshly yellow plum fruit in conjunction with almost crackling acidity that... read more