Dominique Laurent
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Domaine Dominique Laurent

Négociant vieilles vignes - Nuits Saint-Georges

** Producteur de trés grands vins (one of only 19 in the Côte de Nuits)
Le Classement 2005, Bettane & Desseauve

Our notes:

Dominique Laurent is a negoçiant-eleveur. He has only tiny vineyard holdings of his own and buys grapes or new wine from various growers, focussing only on old vines and low yields from almost every appellation on the Côte d'Or and occasionally from the Côte Chalonnaise. The word éleveur indicates that he 'raises' the wine. Initially he only bought young wine, taking delivery soon after vinification in the cellars of the growers with whom he is working. Now, in some cases, he buys the grapes and does the fermentation himself. What sets him apart from most other negoçiants is that he works very closely throughout the year with his growers, most, if not all, of whom are the most important names in Burgundy. He buys the wine, or part of the wine from specific plots of old vines. He involves himself in the viticulture, right through to the harvest and fermentation. He only buys when the fruit, or the young wine, meets his demanding standards. He applies his minimalist methods of élevage, which of course varies from wine to wine and vintage to vintage.

He has raised eyebrows with his use of 100% new oak in the top grands crus. Despite criticism from some quarters that his earlier wines were too oaky, this has not been our, now extensive, experience since the 1993 vintage (his first vintage was 1992). It's worth mentioning that the calibre of the oak used by Laurent is the highest possible (see below) and the wines integrate perfectly with time (no one makes grand crus for early drinking!). Recent outstanding reviews of his '93s by Clive Coates (The Vine) and Revue du Vin de France would seem to have vindicated Laurent's early experimentation and even the early critics are now full of praise.

Laurent is complex and driven and he is without a doubt creating remarkable wines. He is now acknowledged as a major influence upon Burgundy and its wines in the midst of what is clearly the most exciting time in this regions long history. Growers who began by viewing his work with skepticism are now proud of their association, even though their name is never put on the label.

The key to the Laurent wines is old - sometimes exceptionally old - low yielding vines, combined with an élevage that produces richness and complexity, while at the same time retaining the fundamental elements of terroir. We have found his wines have a depth and dimension that transcends most other producers, be it a generique, village wine, premier cru or grand cru. All the wines are bottled by hand without fining or filtration. They are richly flavoured, textural Burgundies that drink well throughout their lives, regularly over-delivering on the reputation of the vintage. They are the glorious result of a very natural, 'minimal intervention' winemaking process, that is to say, the wines are made very gently, next to no sulphur is used (typically only a small dose at bottling), and the wines are bottled by hand without filtration or fining. This approach combined with the natural ripeness achieved from old, low yielding vines leads to the generosity of flavour for which these wines have become famous.

Laurent is constantly seeking to refine and improve his methods. As each year goes by it is clear that his wines are becoming more refined, without diminishing their authority and power. Certainly his wines have a "Dom Laurent" stylistic stamp on them - full flavoured, rich, creamy texture, concentrated - but each one makes a clear statement of its origin, each one speaks of its terroir. NOTE: All Dom Laurent wines require decanting prior to being served. If the wines are young we recommend this occurs half an hour prior to serving.

MAGIC CASKS: Laurent has his own cooperage and makes what are widely regarded as some of the world's finest barrels. These have been nick-named "magic casks", by renowned French wine taster Michel Bettane. Laurent goes into the Tronçais forest to select the trees (typically around 300 years of age) and transports them back to the cooperage himself, thus guaranteeing provenance (a very rare thing these days). He only uses the top section of the trunk, the staves are split by hand and air dried for 52 months. The staves are much thicker, due to their hand splitting, compared with commercial barrels, (40-45mm as opposed to 25-30mm approx). The barrels were developed for Dominique Laurent, and Tardieu Laurent's top cuvees but a few of the barrels are sold to (only) the best French and international producers including DRC, Zind Humbrect, Clos Mogador, Pingus and Robert Parker's Beau Freres in Oregon. A few barrels even make it to Australia!
 

What the critics are saying:

Andrew Jefford, The New France, Mitchell Beazley
"Some of Laurent's wines attain a gob-smacking exoticism quite unparalleled in Burgundy before his arrival: cherry liqueur, crème de cassis, chocolate and havana are all wrapped up in extraordinarily concentrated and showy flavours. This is Burgundy that pushes at the boundaries, that provides altogether new quality perspectives that should make all of the region's red winemakers think about their work again... even the most modest are treated with fanatical care."

Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, Mar/Apr 2001
"...I continue to find his best bottles to be among the sexiest wines produced in Burgundy..."

Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar March 2003
"Few eleveurs use extended barrel aging so effectively to fill out the textures and extend the finishes of their wines: the 2000s that I tasted in blind flights against their peers in January and early February were consistently the deepest and longest wines on the table. These wines also held their fruit for days in the recorked bottles..."

Le Classement 2005, Bettane & Desseauve
"At their the best, there is simply no equivalent Pinot Noir drawn from great sites: the sumptuousness of the grand crus Clos de Bèze, Grands Echezeaux, Bonne Mares, Clos Vougeot VV et Mazis Chambertin exceed any other examples we know of. The same goes for the other end of the range with the Bourgogne No1 and the Chorey les Beaune."

Dominique Laurent

Dominique Laurent Beaune 1er Cru Clos Des Mouches Vv 2007
Laurent note: "It will be pretty easy to taste in this vintage .A three week fermentation. This Cru is one of the top keeping Wines in Bourgogne. I recall having tried 1929 in my Cellar, still... read more
Product Code: 7305-750
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$ 135.00 Single bottle price
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Dominique Laurent Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St Jacques Vieilles Vignes 2004
Our price is 39% less than the '03! Dom Laurent note: Once again, one of the greatest wines in my cellars. Might be even better than 2002. Everything has been done to achieve a Reference Wine:... read more
Product Code: 5379-750
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$ 150.00 Single bottle price
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Dominique Laurent Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Combottes Vv 2007
Laurent note: "From a very old Vine, this Cuvée is of an astonishing sweetness. It confirms the great nobility of the Terroir of this Vineyard - between Latricières-Chambertin and Clos de la Roche.... read more
Product Code: 7317-750
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$ 164.00 Single bottle price
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Dominique Laurent Clos De Vougeot Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2004
Rob's note [June 05]: I tasted only one component from very old vines. Unbelievable colour. Rich lifted nose leads to a mouthful of pinot essence. Incredibly powerful and long and tannic. Brilliant wine. But only part of the blend.
Product Code: 5384-750
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$ 170.10 Single bottle price
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Dominique Laurent Clos De La Roche Grand Cru Vv 2007
Laurent note: "In the Spirit of the very best Wines in the Cellars, with this straightforward and natural dimension of the 'naïve' vinifications! A Wine comes from in walls, from the inside of the... read more
Product Code: 7320-750
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$ 199.00 Single bottle price
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Dominique Laurent Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières Vieilles Vignes 2007
Laurent note: "Absolutely delicious! Lighter in alcohol, this 2007 becomes transparent of purity and finesse. On this magical Climat, the old Chardonnay, little productive, gives to the juice a... read more
Product Code: 7290-750
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$ 201.00 Single bottle price
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Dominique Laurent Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2004
Rob's note [June 05]: Incredibly rich and powerful wine yet also very fresh with crunchy, citrusy finish but this wine is still pre malo. Long, intense very good.
Product Code: 5385-750
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$ 232.40 Single bottle price
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Dominique Laurent Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St Jacques 2007
Laurent note: "Never before, was the ''Clos'' looked after so attentively by the Vigneron, up to a point when some of his employees resigned! In 2007 this work is rewarded. The wine is more than... read more
Product Code: 7318-750
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$ 234.00 Single bottle price
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Dominique Laurent Musigny Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2004
Not offered from 2003. Dom Laurent note: For memory. 120 bottles made from 60 years old vines located in the very centre of the appellation!Limit of 2 bottles per customer, and available only to those who buy a good range of other wines.
Product Code: 5388-750
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$ 395.50 Single bottle price
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