Like a welterweight smashing the bejesus out of a middleweight, this battles well above its class. As always, this comes from declassified Santenay and Maranges, making it another great value in the range and also giving us an insight into the style of wine to expect. In this year's version, the generous imprint of 2009 brings mass and depth and a luscious balance, yet at the same time it is the personality of the terroir that speaks the most clearly: the wine clearly exhibits the classic, spicy, southern Cotes de Beaune tightness you would expect from a young red from these parts. It is a wonderful value for those who like some grip and savoury elements in their Burgundy now and will develop richness over the next few years. Buy some and file under freshness and aromatic vigour. You simply can't go wrong.